I've been to North Korea more than 180 times. Here's how tourists can stay out of trouble.

South Korean and US military personnel steps away from Simon on his first visit to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in 2002. He says they didn't say hello when greeted.

Simon Cockerell

• Simon Cockerell, a tour operator, has visited North Korea more than 180 times.
• North Korea is opening partially to tourism for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic.
• He said visiting can be full of pitfalls, like mentioning religion or South Korea.

This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Simon Cockerell, a manager at the travel agency Koryo Tours. It has been edited for length and clarity.

The first time I went to North Korea, I thought I knew what to expect.

I was living in Beijing at the time, which was near North Korea. I figured it would be a bit like China or a bit like Russia.

There are definitely those elements, especially if you look for them; but the reality is that it is its own place.

In the two decades since then, I've visited North Korea more than 180 times on various tours and trips — perhaps the most of any Westerner.

Tour operator Simon Cockerell on his first trip to North Korea in 2002. Pictured with a North Korean tour guide in front of a statue of North Korean leader Kim Il Sung in Pyongyang.

Simon Cockerell

North Korea has been closed to visitors for almost five years, but is partially opening up to tourists at the end of 2024.

I've shown hundreds of visitors around the country over the years, and if you've ever thought of visiting, this is how to get the most out of a trip to North Korea.

Careful what you talk about

Interacting with the local people and tour guides in the country is not like meeting aliens — it's actually one of my favorite things to do. The fact remains though, that when you're allowed to interact with them, you need to watch what you talk about.

You don't have to go around praising North Korea's leaders, but openly criticizing Kim Jong Un is a definite no-no.

I'm technically allowed to talk about what I want because I'm not a North Korean, but I am also aware that people there don't have that freedom.

So if I go over there and say, "Oh, hey guys, I want to tell you the truth about your leaders, they're actually quite terrible," I'm putting them in a very, very dangerous position.

Simon [far right] with Grammy-award winning singer Joss Stone [center] and North Korean tour guides at Pyongyang Airport at the end of a tour.

Simon Cockerell

Tourism is important to some people there, but nothing is more important than the perception of national security.

You can find some common ground to talk about, but you have to work at it because your cultural references are all completely different. So you can't say, "Oh my gosh, did you see 'Deadpool & Wolverine?'" because they will have no idea what you're talking about.

Absolutely no religious talk

This is the most common reason foreigners get detained in North Korea.

Most of the ways tourists get into trouble in North Korea is for acts that have been pre-meditated, like leaving a Bible behind, handing out religious material, or bringing in other contraband.

Don't take in or leave behind contraband

South Korean cultural products like Korean dramas or K-pop songs should definitely be left behind before coming into North Korea.

Other things on the list include religious material and any material about North Korea published abroad, whether it's literature, guidebooks, or videos.

Then you have the usual — no weaponry, no narcotics. North Korea is actually very permissive about alcohol consumption, so that's OK.

Steer clear of comparisons to South Korea

A lot of tourists who come to North Korea have experience in South Korea as well (it's not true that visiting South Korea makes it difficult to enter North Korea).

These people tend to think "Okay, this is where we will connect. Let me tell you about my life in South Korea!"

The problem is that comparisons between North and South Korea tend to favor the South, and you can imagine people don't like to hear it.

When we lead trips, we tell people "If this is your only conversation, maybe learn to have another conversation."

Colorful dancers perform at North Korea's Arirang Mass Games in 2002, a mass event that happens every few years and features 100,000 performers.

Simon Cockerell

About 90% of the country is off-limits — so don't wander off

Part of my role as a tour operator has been to be a sort of guinea pig, visiting areas of the country the government is thinking of opening to tourism.

I've seen beautiful seasides with basalt columns and other places tourists still haven't been allowed to visit.

Something like 90% of the country is off-limits for tourists both legally and logistically. Horrific poverty means that there's not much infrastructure conducive to tourism outside approved areas.

There are also military bases and operations throughout the country that are off-limits for obvious reasons.

I would definitely advise that tourists stay with their guides at all times, and not wander off for some personal adventure.

Simon's travel documents on his 180th trip to North Korea - boarding pass for Pyongyang, DPRK visa, and a well-used passport.

Simon Cockerell

Ask permission to take pictures

Everybody likes to take photos, it's quite understandable. As tour operators, we've seen everything you can imagine. Sometimes someone will take a picture when they're not supposed to.

People seem to think it's off to the gulag as soon as you do something wrong. The worst that I've seen is that they get asked to delete it and not do it again — but it's always best not to try to sneak pictures when you think nobody is looking.

At the end of the day, it's very simple — all you have to do is not break the law. In general, if you don't think you can go into any country without breaking their laws, you probably shouldn't be anywhere near that country — especially if the country is North Korea.

It's the most difficult, complicated, thankless, and endlessly fascinating country I've been to.

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