I tried Il Mulino's prix-fixe weeknight dinner for $60. The upscale Italian chain's meal was delicious with a few downsides.

The Long Island Il Mulino location is closest to me.

Steven John

• I went to Il Mulino for the first time to try the upscale Italian chain's prix-fixe dinner.
• The main-course options were diverse, and the scallops and risotto I had were excellent.
• For $60 a person, I think a round of drinks and coffee should've been included.

When I entered the Il Mulino on Long Island, I was shocked by just how quiet it was. The upscale Italian chain is located right next to a major thoroughfare, and I went to dine at the height of rush hour. But inside, things were perfectly tranquil.

That alone should've foreshadowed the kind of fine-dining experience I was about to have. The chain has been operating its flagship Greenwich Village location in New York for 40 years, but it also has five other locations in New York, New Jersey, and Florida.

Although many restaurants struggled to regain their footing during the COVID-19 pandemic, fine-dining establishments in the US have seen a 2.7% revenue increase over the last five years. Il Mulino exemplifies that success as the brand has continued to expand to include casual and steak-house restaurants over the years.

I brought my father-in-law — a good home cook who's fiercely proud of his Italian heritage — with me to try the chain's $58 prix-fixe weeknight dinner for the first time.

Here's what it was like.

Il Mulino has a large menu of specials, à la carte offerings, and prix-fixe meals.

The dining room was nicely decorated.

Steven John

Similar to most Italian restaurants, Il Mulino's menu is full of appetizers, soups and salads, meats, chicken dishes, pasta, fish, and sides. Starters cost between $24 and $32, and mains range from $34 to $95.

When we sat down, we listened to the server list out the sumptuous-sounding specials, but I was already committed to trying the $58 three-course, prix-fixe menu.

The special dinner, which is only offered Monday through Friday, consists of a starter, a main dish, and a dessert.

The bread was included, but we had to pay extra for drinks.

We got a bread basket shortly after sitting down.

Steven John

The prix-fixe menu notably doesn't include drinks, which I found a little disappointing.

The chain's wine menu has glasses ranging from $16 to $40, and I paid $15 for two 10-ounce bottles of ginger ale. It felt steep, to say the least.

We sipped on our drinks and snacked on the complimentary bread basket while mulling over the menu.

I started my meal with a nice salad.

My salad was fresh and tasty.

Steven John

Among the first-course options, I closely considered the arugula salad with pear, goat cheese, walnuts, and a lemon dressing; the minestrone soup; and the house-made burrata with tomato and basil.

But in the end, I went with the Mediterranean salad, which included organic tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, green olives, and feta cheese.

I figured a simple salad would be a good way to judge the place against the comparable Italian restaurants I've dined at.

As it happened, I made the wrong choice — but not because the salad was bad.

The burrata appetizer was quite small but looked absolutely delicious.

Steven John

My salad was quite delicious. All the ingredients were fresh and well-balanced — aside from it being a touch salty.

But I know I made the wrong choice because the burrata my father-in-law ordered looked amazing.

Since the portion was rather small, I declined his offer to share.

There are more than a dozen choices for the main course on the prix-fixe menu.

I like scallops, but I know they can be hard to cook.

Steven John

It took me twice as long as usual to pick my main course because there were so many options on the prix-fixe menu.

The salmon in a Champagne-grape sauce was a contender, and the chicken Sorrentina almost won out. There were also steaks and other seafood dishes to consider.

But I chose the pan-seared scallops with saffron risotto. An overcooked scallop is like a piece of dry rubber, so this would be a real culinary test.

The entrées were simply excellent.

My father-in-law liked his chicken dish.

Steven John

The chicken my father-in-law ordered featured tender meat, a thin cut of eggplant, and just enough cheese to add flavor and texture without upstaging the meat.

Despite my concerns, my scallops were perfectly cooked and rested on a bed of risotto with a rich yellow hue and a deep, savory flavor.

I'm used to getting extra vegetables or potatoes with my entrées at Italian restaurants. But I suppose the lack of sides made the entrées shine brighter.

I focused on every bite, enjoying the tender scallops with the perfectly al dente risotto and appreciating the seafood notes, herbs, and butter.

I never get dessert, but it was already paid for.

The gelato may not look like much, but it was delicious.

Steven John

I really never order desserts at restaurants, but it came with the prix-fixe menu. I asked for a scoop of the pistachio gelato.

I also spent an extra $7 on a cup of decaf coffee, which I think should've been included with the meal.

In terms of taste and texture, the gelato was some of the best ice cream I've had all year. Rich, creamy, and lightly sweet, it was a perfect pairing to my black coffee and a good way to end a fine meal.

I’d return to Il Mulino, but I'd stick to what's included on the prix fixe next time.

Paying extra for drinks was kind of a drag.

Steven John

Compared to the regular dinner menu at Il Mulino — where an antipasti plate of caprese costs $31 and a main course of English Dover sole is $90 — the $58 three-course meal is a solid deal.

That said, when I spend nearly $60 on dinner (well over $75 after the tip), I usually like to have a beverage and be well stuffed at the end. The fact that I had to pay extra for drinks and coffee annoyed me a bit, and the portions here were definitely on the smaller side.

But if you want superb Italian food at a decent price, Il Mulino can still be a worthwhile weeknight reservation. Better yet, the chain also offers an even cheaper four-course Sunday supper (salad, appetizer, main, dessert) for $52 a person.

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